Nosara, Costa Rica: The Guide
A pura vida escape
Nosara, Costa Rica
The journey, the stay, the food, the yoga, the beaches, the surfing and the energy of Nosara—here’s everything you need to know before immersing yourself in this quintessentially idyllic haven.
The Journey
The thick jungle air, perfumed with humidity and a salty sea breeze, is the first thing that struck me when I stepped off the small plane at the Liberia airport. Even during dry season, my natural curls came to life at first contact with Costa Rican land. I can sense the sea near as though it’s calling me back, every time. And so with nothing but pure giddy anticipation to return home to sea, I picked up my rental car and began my journey along the Nicoya Peninsula to my airbnb.
What I didn’t know was that getting to Nosara from the airport is no easy feat. Your options are one of the two—take a shuttle and then rent an ATV or car once you get to Nosara, or rent a car from the airport and drive there yourself. I chose the latter since it would have been more costly otherwise. In hindsight, I should have opted for the former. Now, the drive to Nosara isn’t for the faint of heart. I’ve driven lengthy distances before and the three hours to Nosara didn’t worry me, but what I wasn’t expecting was a drive in mostly rocky terrains, rough and uneven for what seemed like an eternity. The first hour is somewhat smooth sailing—horses and cattle walk the streets, sometimes creating traffic jams of their own. But once you get into the smaller towns, the wild life roaming the streets becomes the least of your worries. The sun had set and the sky had gotten dark in the last hour and a half of my drive. The thick jungle shielded the moon's light and all that was left to guide me were my headlights. Most of the roads are completely unpaved so slow and steady was the only way as I dodged large rocks and potholes bigger than the car itself. On alert and with my stress levels at an all time high, I immediately took a big sigh of relief when I finally made it to Nosara in one piece.
Pro tip for future reference: be sure to rent a 4x4 but the best way to navigate Costa Rica and its mostly untouched land is by ATV or scooter.
The Stay
After what seemed like the longest night and drive of my life, I woke the next morning eager to get off on better footing with Costa Rica and was welcomed by the bright and cozy rental. Nestled in the hills and perfectly positioned between Playa Guiones and Playa Pelada, the 2-bedroom, 2-bathroom bungalow put me at ease the moment I stepped in. With high-ceilings, a wide open kitchen, spacious bedrooms and a front yard that made me eager for slow mornings laying on the hammock, the home is beautifully designed for short and long stays. At night you can hear the sounds of the jungle lulling you into peaceful dreams while melting into the soft bed until the morning’s light comes pouring into the big windows.
Villa in Las Huacas
The Food
Being one of the five Blue Zones of the world, I was extra excited for the food. For fruit, I loved stopping at the fruit stand in Downtown Guiones. Their selection is always so fresh and they’ve got some of the best mango and passion fruit I’ve ever had. Be sure to go back to that same strip on Tuesdays for the weekly artisanal street market. You’ll find everything from homemade bread to handmade jewelry and clothing.
Just at the top of that same street, Orgánico Bakery is a great place to pick up some freshly baked goods and snacks for your stays. It’s a little on the pricier side but you can be sure to find options with clean ingredients!
If you’re looking for a little escape from the midday heat, I loved going to the Juice Bar hidden away in the Harmony Hotel. Stepping into the hotel's very aesthetic property truly feels like stepping into the White Lotus—everything is just so luxe and secluded, like it exists in a world of its own world. You can sit nestled under the trees, order up a fresh juice or iced tea and get lost with a book for a little while during peak sun hours. Bonus points for having spotted a mama monkey with her babies at Harmony.
For a quick bite that never disappoints, you can find the locals at Blue Zone Brewery. My favorite on the menu was the burrito and their house iced tea, but if you’re a beer lover, they offer a really great selection of craft beers and a sports station to pair them with on game nights.
On a Tuesday, you have to get yourself to El Chivo Cantina for Taco Tuesday. Actually scratch that, go whenever… Located right next to Playa Pelada, this spot is the spot for tacos. Rumour has it, I still can’t stop thinking about the Baja Fish and Baja Berenjena (eggplant) tacos. Ten out of ten. No notes. Order your food from the bar, get yourself some tequila and get cozy. From the atmosphere, to the food, El Chivo’s was probably one of my favorite places to eat and was filled with friends, laughter, live music and dogs!
Perfect for a quieter dinner, I loved Pacifico Azul. The staff was super friendly and I really just couldn’t get enough of the ceviche. The extra lime they squeeze on top made it even fresher and so delicious.
More tacos and fresh churros? Count me in. There’s a reason Al Chile was recommended in almost every article I read. Everything here was so delicious, even if you’re simply craving a fresh salad.
Ugh breakfast. Arguably my favourite meal of the day. Now, every Tiktok and article will tell you to go to Sunrise Coffee for the best breakfast and brunch in Nosara. Don’t get me wrong, their food is delicious and if you find yourself at Playa Pelada in the morning, you absolutely NEED to try their banana bread, their spinach empanada, and of course, their coffee. My favourite was their adaptogenic latte (the one with cacao and cinnamon) with a shot or two of espresso in it. Truly like nothing I’ve ever tasted.
But as for my favorite breakfast spot, Destiny Café wins by a landslide. Located outside of La Negra Surf Hotel, Destiny has some of the yummiest food made with the freshest ingredients. You truly can’t go wrong with anything on their menu—I loved their truffle-avo toast. And as for their coffee… order their cloud coffee. It’s made with fresh whipped coconut milk and definitely on the heavier side but ask for it to go, on ice, and it’s the perfect morning beach drink.
Speaking of coffee, I’m a notorious coffee snob, so, know that if the espresso isn’t bold, rich and well-rounded, I’m not drinking it. But when I say, I never had a coffee I didn’t love… I mean it. I already mentioned that Sunrise Coffee had one of my favorite coffees but you’re also guaranteed to have a stunning caffeine boost from both Rolling Waves Coffee and El Jardin.
The Yoga Resorts
Nosara is home to an abundance of resorts and yoga retreats and you can find one on just about every corner of the little town. Whether you’re a guest or not, you can visit almost each one, dine at their restaurants, go to their juice bars, and most importantly go to their yoga, workout and breathwork classes. So when the heat has gotten to be too much to bear and you’re looking for something to do, simply pop into any class that calls your name. Each resort is special in itself, and offers different classes with different instructors, but if you’re like me and feel drawn to people’s energies, then Norte Nosara is where you need to be. The Yoga & Surf Hotel is owned by the powerhouse of a woman, Esti Chizic who has created a down to earth sanctuary that you can’t help but keep going back to. The studio’s open lush space feels like a sanctuary in the middle of the jungle and the sounds of the waterfall coming from the pool add to the essence of it all. Esti is also one of Norte’s yoga teachers, and she may be small, but she sure is mighty. The way Esti commands a room in the softest way possible, is something to experience. Her energy encapsulates you, shutting out everything else around you, guiding you to the here and now. As for her vinyasa classes, they are transportive, bringing you to a place within yourself that feels both centered, strong and simultaneously challenged. Whether you’re taking on her breathwork, detox or any other class she offers, the shift you feel in both your mind and body afterwards is truly unreal, a pulsating energy you carry with you for the rest of your day.
The Beaches
Now if you know me, you know I love beach hopping (because one is never enough) and in Costa Rica, each beach carries its own energy, so let’s dive in.
Playa Guiones is its own kind of magic. A surfers paradise if you will. It’s a great spot for pros and beginners alike. I’d head there before sunrise, watching the surfers come trickling in to catch the first morning waves. You’re sure to make friends with all the local dogs waiting for their dads to return from their surf. And it’s not just the surfers that are up before the birds—the morning is the epitome of peace so be sure to stay quiet and respect the others making it down for a morning meditation or their breathwork practice. During the day, there aren’t too many shady spots to seek shelter under when the sun is the strongest but that won’t stop surf students looking to hit the less crowded waves. Gosh, and at night… the beach transforms. Thirty minutes before sundown everyone reunites to watch it make its descent once again. Kids and dogs run around, locals gather after a long hot day to find repose, tourists come to watch in awe and try to engrain the beauty in their memories to return to time and time again, and of course, along with the setting sun, the surfers create the perfect backdrop for a mesmerizing view. Playa Guiones’ clear horizon and glass-like shore make it a truly perfect spot to watch the sunset until the very last dip where the clear blue sky turns from bright orange, to fiery red, until it descends below the horizon and transforms the sky to sweet pink, yellow and blue pastels. And someway, somehow, every night, the sunset seems to be more magical than the one before.
Just minutes away from Playa Guiones is Playa Pelada. If your vibe is a quieter and more quaint beach, consider Playa Pelada the go-to. This beach is for just about everyone. It’s selling point apart from the perfect waters? You can be sure to find a shady spot under the trees to protect you from peak heat. The waves could be mighty depending on the day but otherwise, it’s a great spot for swimming and laying around with a book. At night, it’s a great place to watch the sunset away from the large crowds that Playa Guiones attracts… and I promise, it’s just as beautiful. The sun sets behind the beaches’ notable rock formations to create a truly idyllic experience.
Known as one of the world’s most important turtle nesting sites, Playa del Ostional is one of the most remote villages but well worth the trek. If you’re lucky enough to visit during nesting or hatching months, you’ll get to watch nature in its purest form, the creation and miracle of life… My timing was not so lucky, but I had to go anyway. While the turtles draw an immense amount of crowds, outside of those magical moments, the beach is completely deserted without a single person in sight. Eerie in the most beautiful way, the sands are black and cluttered with seashells, the waves are calm and apart from the sound of the ocean, it’s completely silent. If you’re looking for somewhere to be alone with your thoughts, consider this your haven.
Now, my personal favorite. Although most people who are privy to this treasure trove beach would prefer I gatekeep, I’m here to give you the locals inside scoop. You’re welcome.
The forty minute drive from Playa Guiones through rough roads is so worth it because once you get to Playa San Juanillo, you’re instantly struck by the beauty. It’s like stepping into a work of art. Known to locals for its abundant marine life, it’s a fisherman’s paradise. The crystal clear waters, white sand and gentle currents make it an ideal spot for calm swims and snorkeling adventures. You can easily hike up to the elevated point for the best view of the beach, lay under the trees all day, or find local fishermen that offer tours to drive you out for potential dolphin and whale spotting. That’s not all. What makes this beach so picturesque is the narrow sand path and rock formation that divide the beach into two. Get yourself a coconut to sip on, lay back and take it all in… because I know I could have easily spent forever right there, just like that.
The Surfing
I already mentioned that Nosara is home to ideal surf breaks, no matter your skill level. If you’re looking to learn, you can find surf shops that offer courses on just about every corner of Playa Guiones. Group and private sessions are available and at different times of the day. The problem? It’s kind of pricey to opt for surfing lessons. If you’re already a surfer, you can simply rent a surfboard from any shop or hotel for a few hours, a day, a week… however long you please and surf whenever you want. And if you’re like me, and you love an adventure but have absolutely no skill or experience, you can analyze the surfers movements and the surfing instructors giving students tips, maybe even watch a youtube video, and simply rent a surfboard, let go and let God (but also check the surf forecast to make sure the waves aren’t too rowdy). Bruises just about everywhere? Yes. Regrets? None. I rented a surfboard in time for sunset, did a few stretches and hit the waves. Surfing is no joke. It took all my strength and muscle power to simply get that board across the shallow shore and into deep enough waters. Somehow, I managed to teach myself how to navigate the board through the water, turn it around in time to catch the wave I wanted to ride, and hop on. Don’t be fooled… I never actually stood up. But after being taken out more than a few times, I mastered riding the wave (always laying on my stomach), all the way to shore. Let me tell you, once you’re moving with the water, the sense of freedom is unmatched. Simply watching the surfers move so effortlessly, like they’re walking on water, is a kind of magic that I’m so determined to experience myself someday… maybe next time with a lesson or two?
The Energy
While Nosara is a home for many, it’s an escape for others—a place of refuge where the waves wash away reality and the sun shines a light to better days, or maybe even a better reality. I guess that’s why so many North Americans find themselves recreating their life and moving to this peaceful corner of the world, or at least coming back over and over again. There’s an energetic shift the moment you set foot in this idyllic place. A pureness to it all—peaceful, tranquil, euphoric. Even those that visit from bustling cities immediately unearth the stillness within themselves. Apart from the drives… it's hard to feel anything but calm. Kindness emulates from locals and tourists alike—it’s not the stressors of life that guide them, but it’s life itself, it’s nature and the unity between the two. Nosara is more than just a destination—it’s a reminder to slow down, to reconnect with nature, and to rediscover the joy of simplicity. Whether you're chasing the waves, seeking serenity through yoga, or simply soaking in the endless beauty of the beaches, there’s something here that calls to the soul. Nosara doesn’t just offer an escape but a return to the very essence of living.
Pura Vida.
Melody
Can’t wait to go one day 🫶🏼
Congratulations Melody on another amazing creation. Your description of this amazing place makes one immediately hope that one day it can be experienced.